Day Trip to Beppu and Its Many Hells

Have you ever cooked your food using the steam from a hot spring considered locally as Hell? Or enjoyed a sand bath on the beach with a view of the sea? By visiting Beppu, you can do both!

Nestled by the bay in Oita Prefecture, the coastal city of Beppu is known for its world class hot springs and is Japan’s best onsen resorts due to its high output of hot water. Some of these springs are too hot to soak in, and seven of these steaming colorful ponds of water can be found at the “Hells” (地獄 or Jigoku, which translates literally to “earth prison”). If you’ve ever visited Yellowstone National Park’s hot springs, this may feel somewhat familiar, but on a much, much, much smaller scale.

The jigokus have been known as “Hells” for over a thousand years, due to the hot steam and boiling mud. Locals at the time avoided the area, believing it was cursed. Now it is a very popular tourist attraction, as well as one of the top hot spring resorts in the country.

When visiting the area for a day, I decided to take the self-guided Jigoku Hell Tour. There are seven distinctive jigokus across two different sections, Kannawa and Shibaseki, which are about 3 km apart. Each jigoku has a separate admissions ticket, but a pass for all seven can be purchased for a discounted price. They are appropriately named by their appearances and each have their own unique history.

THE SEVEN HELLS

The Kannawa Onsen area has five jigokus.

Umi Jigoku, the Sea Hell, is the largest spring and is aptly named due to the intense cobalt blue making it look like the ocean. This beautiful spring is due to the high iron content and is scalding hot at 98°C. Because of this heat, it’s the perfect environment for the royal water lilies to grow and bloom.

The water lilies can also be seen within the nearby greenhouse.

Oniishi Bozu Jigoku, the Shaven Monk’s Head Hell, features large bubbling grey mud, It was given that name because, well, that’s what it looks like! Near the spring is a small geyser, Oni no Takaibiki, where steam emerges out of rocks, making a sound of “demons snoring.”

Kamado Jigoku, the Cooking Pot Hell is named after an ancient myth in which steamed rice was cooked with the steam from the onsen and presented as an offering to the Ujigami, or guardian god. It has six mini-hells and is very interactive, such as a throat bath and a hand and foot steam bath.

I recommend tasting the drinkable onsen water, which is not only hot at 80°C, but tastes like rotten eggs due to the high sulfur content.

Shiraike Jigoku, the White Pond Hell, milky white hot spring wth a Japanese style garden. Compared to the rest of the springs, which look harsh in comparison, this heart shaped spring is serene and a very scenic spot.

Oniyama Jigoku, the Crocodile Hell, is home to about 70 crocodiles. I personally didn’t visit this spring, and it is controversial due to concerns of animal welfare.

The Shibaseki Onsen area is a short bus ride or about a 20 minute walk from Kannawa and is home to two very different springs.

Chinoike Jigoku, the Blood Pond Hell, is the oldest natural hot spring at over 1300 years old. The water is a dark red from iron oxide and is said to have healing powers.

And finally, Tatsumaki Jigoku, the Tornado Hell, is a 150°C steam geyser which erupts every 30-40 minutes for about 6-10 minutes. Due to it’s predictability, check the times prior to visiting the spring to make better use of your time.

THINGS TO DO

Some of the jigokus have foot baths on the premises if you want to relax your feet, which are free of charge. Souvenirs and snacks are available as well, notably steam-baked pudding and healing bath salts. Another fun activity is partaking in jigoku-mushi, a cooking method using only hot steam, which has been popular since the Edo Period.

What’s visiting the country’s best onsen resort area without actually going to an onsen! On the beach you’ll find Shonin Park, home to a unique type of onsen which brings relaxation to another level. Beppu is one of the cities with a multitude of sand baths, where the sand is carefully heated with hot spring water multiple times a day and cycled to remove impurities and keep it clean. For ¥2,500, you can enjoy about 15 minutes in the sand bath with a view of the sea. The price includes a yukata (a Japanese robe) rental and bathing in the Grand Bath onsen.

TRANSPORTATION:

• If you have a vehicle, Beppu Jigoku has free parking at all of its sites. You can either drive or walk the 3 km between the two areas.
• If traveling via public transportation, take the local buses #2, #5, #24, or #41 from JR Beppu Station to the Kannawa Bus Terminal (20 min, approx. ¥400). Local buses #16 or #16A also goes between the two regions and takes about five minutes.

QUICK SUMMARY:

Times: 0800 – 1700 daily
Location: Jigokus are located in two main districts: Kannawa and Shibaseki
Cost: Individual Jigokus – ¥450-500 ($3-3.50 USD); Common Admission – ¥2,400 ($16 USD) for adults. Tickets are only good for one entry.

Interested in seeing the rest of Oita? Check out the Official Tourism Website for more information on the “Onsen Prefecture”!

LOCAL CRAFT BEER:

Beppu Brewery
13-8 Ekimaecho, Beppu, Oita
I haven’t been to this brewery since it opened in late 2022. The beers here are crafted to be a refreshing post-onsen drink. Brews include the Oni IPA and the Lapis Blue seltzer, both epitomizing the Beppu Jigokus.